I arrived on a Sunday morning and was prepared to keep moving so that I can adjust to their time zone. It was too early for me to check in to the hotel, which worked out since it forced me to continue on with my day. I immediately went to look for my first meal. I received wonderful restaurants suggestions from a young lady at the hotel, Hotel Suisse. Hotel Suisse is a boutique hotel right on the Promenade des Anglaise which is the main strip along the Mediterranean Sea. The hotel is in a special location right on the corner where the sea bends with the closest view of the sea. It is also close to Vieux Nice (Old Nice) aka Vielle Ville (Old Town) and the sea port. My room was on the top 5th floor with a sea view and it was amazing. I could see the sea without getting out of bed.
As I began my journey to my first meal at Brasserie George, I began roaming through the narrow winding streets full of boutique shops, bakeries and restaurants. I quickly found myself in Vieux Nice where there was a fresh market with vendors selling cheese, pastries, olives and fruit. There was also a notable flower market with the most beautiful blooms. As I continued to walk, I passed the Palais de Justice, courthouse, which was a very official looking building where the narrow streets open up to a big courtyard. I suddenly realized that I had no idea where to locate the restaurant, despite having a map, but I just keep roaming because the atmosphere and scenery was so satisfying and really this is the best way to learn your way around and find hidden gems in the process. I found myself in new Nice, I passed the Promenade du Paillon which is a fountain where streams of water shoot up from the ground. Kids like to play in the water which I'm sure is a refreshing break from the heat and humidity. As I try to locate a spot nearby to take a break from walking in the heat, I located a visitor center. Thankful for the AC break but starving at his point, I was given directions to Brasserie George which was nearby, a couple blocks away.
Brasserie George is a very elegant open space, nice but not too fancy, perfect for my first meal in Nice. I ordered the Salade de Tomate, tomato salad, which was so fresh and perfectly and simply seasoned with salt, pepper and olive oil. I finished this off with a delicious chocolate mousse, great quality chocolate and not overly sweet. I thought this might be my best meal of the trip but my meals got progressively better. I experienced Socca, which is a signature snack in Nice, a crepe made from chickpeas and seasoned with salt and pepper. It's is delicious and gluten free, which was perfect for me though there was no way I would remain gluten free in France! My final meal of the trip was a six course meal at Terre de Truffes, where every course included truffles. I was so grateful for the restaurant recommendations that I received from Marie at Hotel Suisse. She was on the mark with each suggestion and steered me away from the tourist traps. Below is a list of restaurants that I enjoyed along with the highlights of my meal.
Nice, France
Brasserie George - Tomato salad
Chez Pipo - Socca
Di Piu - Pizza
Di Yar - Lebanese chicken
Fennochio - Gelato
HANgoût - Foie gras creme brûlée (trust me try it, my first foie gras experience and it was delicious)
LAC - Macarons and chocolate
Terre de Truffes - Six course meal with truffles
Villefranche sur Mer
Oursin Bleu - Fleurs de courgettes (zucchini flower stuffed with goat cheese)
Monaco
Piamu u Fresco - Casual lunch time spot with super fresh salads, quality ingredients
In addition to enjoying the food, I was looking forward to exploring other areas along the French Riviera. I spent my first few days visiting Cannes, Monaco and the cities in between such as Villefranche sur Mer and Eze. I even ended up in Italy! I missed my stop on my way to Monaco and ended up in Ventimiglia. I made good use of the train system which is the best and affordable way to get around. I would also consider renting a car because there are many nooks within the towns that are worth seeing.
Cannes is a very upscale chic town, with designer shops in the forefront and warm, sandy beaches. I rented a lounge chair, towel and umbrella at the private beach club, Plage du Festival, on Promenade de la Croisette for 30 euro. On the French Riviera, there are public and private beaches. The private beaches provide chairs and umbrella's for a fee between 15 and 40 euro. They typically have food service, though in some you are allowed to bring your own snacks.
Monaco is extremely upscale. It's where the super wealthy play. In the area where the Casino Monte Carlo is located, there are rows of high end cars, Bentleys, Ferraris, etc. Monaco is its own principality which separates itself from France. The town felt very cramped with many high rise buildings which took away from the beauty of the sea and mountains. This was not my favorite area. I did not go inside the casino but I'm told that you need your passport to enter if you would like to visit.
Eze is a small town between Nice and Monaco. It's breathtakingly beautiful with a expansive sea view and mountains so close you feel you can reach out and touch them. I now understand the term "killer views" because you feel like you will keel over from the beauty. I visited the Chateau de la Chevre, which is a hotel with winding stairs where you pass boutique shops and once you reach the top of the stairs, you are rewarded with the most amazing sea and mountain views.
Villefranche sur Mer is one town over from Nice. Again, incredible views, boutique shops and restaurants but my main reason for visiting was to go to the open air cinema. On certain evenings, once dark, movies are shown at the Citadel, a fort that once you go through the main entrance you experience the most beautiful gardens and when combined with white lights and a sea view, you are in store for a magical evening.
Ventimiglia, is the first city in Italy along the Coast going North. I am told there is a fabulous fresh market there and people take the train there to shop. Unfortunately, I ended up there in the evening and was lost. The train station did not seem to be in a nice location so I decided to stay put until it was time for the next train back into France. Once back on the train, at the first stop in France, the police jump on the train. I believe they are trying to protect the border. It was a very adventurous night.
I would like to circle back to my hotel experience at Hotel Suisse. The location was prime and the staff was extremely friendly and provided excellence service and guidance. They offer breakfast for 18 euro a day, you have an option a buffet on the main area or breakfast delivered to your room. They even offered to get gluten free bread for me to have for the remainder of my stay. On one hand I don't believe breakfast was worth 18 euro but I found being able to have breakfast on the terrace overlooking the sea priceless. Hotel Suisse made my stay in Nice very comfortable and special. I've actually booked the same room already for a return trip next year.
Overall, Nice was one of my most memorable trips and traveling alone provided me with an opportunity to explore, get lost, find my way back, meet new people and experience new things. I truly felt that I was able to spread my wings which is how you should feel when visiting an area unlike your own. To those who worry about the language barrier, don't, many of the locals where you will be speak English and they are very friendly contrary to what you hear about France. Explore and see for yourself!
Lots and lots of pics are below!
Food
Monaco
Cannes